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Don't buy a cheap power inverter
Was looking for a new power inverter with some guts to it, something that could kick start an induction motor in my refrigerator but not cost an arm and a leg. I think I found it.
First, let me tell you that those light weight modified square wave units sold on ebay are junk unless you only need to run resistive loads, small drills and box fans, other than that just forget buying one, it will disappoint you. Come to find out, those cheap MSW inverters are plain old lying about "surge" current output. Most are rated at 500 millisecond surge - that's only half of a second ! You won't be able to start a cheap blender let alone have an off grid refrigerator. And yes, those off grid DC refrigerators are damn expensive too. And no, I don't want to run my propane fridge forever, I like making my own power ... And forget about those true sine wave inverters, way too expensive, buy a Trace, a Prosine or a Xantrex and I wouldn't have room for the batteries in my budget. So here's the deal. I found out a MSW inverter will run my fridge if it isn't a cheap transistorized paper weight. There is a middle ground in off grid inverters, its the Tripp-Lite PV series units. Those cheap capacitors in the cheap MSW inverters are replaced with a big hunk of cooper and steel transformer. Weights about 23 lbs VS, about 6 lbs for the cheapies that look like power amplifiers instead of what a real inverter looks like. This is the best deal in 12 or 24 volt inverters with or without the built in chargers. My latest score was $252 (shipping included) for this rig rated at 150% surge output for an hour. Tripp-Lite PV1250FC It has a "sense load" feature that leaves the unit off until a load is present, cycles on and off with refrigerator compressor. http://media.digikey.com/photos/Trip...e_PV1250FC.jpg Details Features Include o Allows users to run large, motorized AC appliances from any 12V battery or automotive DC system o Converts 12V DC battery power to 120V AC power o 1,250 watts continuous output power o 2,500 watts peak output power to startup heavy motorized / inductive loads o 2 outlets; DC input terminals for 12V battery connection o Frequency control for operating stability o High-efficiency operation conserves batteries to prolong run time o Diagnostic LEDs indicate load level (high, medium, and low) and battery charge (high, medium, and low) o DC fusing protects inverter against overload o RJ45 port allows connection of APS/PowerVerter Remote Switch (manuf# APSRM4) |
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Tripp-Lite That company has been around longer than most of us have been alive.. Old and well established . I have some test gear in my radio shack that my grandfather used when he repaired the old tube type tv's and radios,, and the equipment still works, 50 + years later... Good company.. |
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I have a bead on 2 used triplite 5000 va UPS units that are being replaced because the batteries are dead. I will be getting those for free.
These output 220v pure sine wave. I plan to hook one up to a large battery bank, and use the second as a spare. We will see how it does with surge loads. I plan to try to run my 220 well pump with it (my well pump has a starter cap, so it isn't too bad) |
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Have you tried converting a chest freezer into a refrig? |
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Excellent score, Techguy !
Even with the MSRP of $400 the Tripp-Lite beats the Trace by about $600. Modified Sine Wave will run a heavy induction load IF its built to take it ! That means we need one of these - http://www.buckboosttransformer.net/acmebuckboost2.jpg Not a bunch of these in its design - http://theelectrostore.com/shopsite_...ors-400v-o.jpg The start cap circuit on your well pump is needed because of wire run length. |
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i have been running the whole house for almost 12 months with cheap
harbor freight inverters 2000 watt continuous 4000 watt peak they will not/normally start the swamp cooler motor or the saw bench but most everything else in the house including the fridge is fine the only exception is the girls hair straightener. the well pump is 220 so that is out of the question for those cheap harbor freight inverters tech guy i want a 12 to 220 inverter that will run my well pump as well let me know if you find something suitable i tried ordering a cheap inverter out of australia but it did not work not sure if it was a frequency or mod sine wave problem.i also looked into parralel xantrex inverters but have not tried that yet. |
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The surge ratings on the cheap MSW (power amplifier look-a-likes) type inverters is misleading ! |
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which would be better. they run a lot of stuff better than the generator as long as the bats are well charged. so my 2cents is at least try a cheaper inverter you may be surprised at what they can acomplish.the same ratings in xantrex or other comparable inverters are 3 times the price why not give the cheaper a go |
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pat i am looking for a larger inverter to run the well pump are you actually running one of these yet?
do you have a very large fridge? the fridge i have is rated at almost 600 watts run and it is fairly large im guessing that the startup is maybee close to 2000 watt either way my cheapy inverters have never had a problem with the fridge. also during power outages before i went of grid i used to run it on a 700 watt continuous inverter and the fridge worked fine. 700 watt inverter was even cheaper |
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I think these are 48v, so we will have to wire in series and in parallel. for full price inverter to 220v, this is the best one I have seen (on specs only, have not used) http://www.partsonsale.com/magnum.html |
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Agreed, but it also serves to lessen the surge current required to start the pump. |
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posting for link.
I am looking for the RV but need it for the pc. |
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Start up load for a 600 watt compressor can be up to five times RLA (running load Amps). Start load is given as LRA (locked rotor Amps). If you ran a 600 watt refrigerator on a 700 watt "cheap" inverter I can't see how it even started. Unless it was an RV fridge and its running a heating element instead of a compressor. Add the defrost heaters (if the fridge has them) and your "cheap" 700 watt inverter must be using nuclear fuel instead of batteries ... |
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using a compressor not an rv unit. |
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I run my whole house from an outback 2000 watt (rated) inveretr.
In continuous service since 2003. Outback FX2024, will run freezer, refrigerator, microwave oven, a couple computers, deep well pump, clothe washer, coffee maker, etc. The well pump is run through a real heavy 4KVA step up transformer, which feeds it a rock steady 244 volts ac, ( zero sag) Although the inverter is only rated at 2000 watts, I have seen it pull 6 kilowatts, running engine block heaters, it doesnt seem to mind a bit. If you plan to make 6000 watts with an inverter, bring LOTS of batteries. and use BIG copper cable to connect all your DC stuff. |
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BTW - it was Tripp-Lite's web page that actually tells the customer the difference between their imported units and what is true surge current. The PV-xxx-FC series Tripp-Lite heavy inverters are (dollar for watt) the best buy on the market. |
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I bought one of those cheap Chinese msw inverters last fall when things were looking real scary. Got it on eBay for $335. It is rated at 6000 watts continuously . I'm guessing that it will handle at least 4000 watts, which is how much the biggest aftermarket car alternators put out. I also bought a 2Kw 120v-240v transformer to run the well pump from it. But... I have never actually tried to the thing yet. I've read accounts from people who claim their msw inverters have been running almost everything in their house flawlessly for years. And others who say that half of their stuff just won't run on a msw inverter. It IS a fact that motors will run 20% hotter with a msw inverter, but I'd like some real-world info from anyone who has actually run their well on one for years. I'm a bit reluctant to connect it up to my well for fear of burning the motor up, although I'd think the 50F temp of the ground would help protect it. So, can anyone personally confirm having used a msw inverter to run their well for several years?
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I'm guessing that you intend to use the inverter from a 12 volt source from a car alternator charger. At 6000 watts you will need battery cables that will handle 500 Amps ! That's two and a half times the size of the main feeders that service a normal home. That's the problem with 12 volt power inverters, getting cables large enough to stop the inverter from tripping out on a voltage droop. For portable emergency power a 1200 watt continuous inverter requires 100 amp cables, I use welding cables. For home use in that power range you'll be hard pressed to come up with cables and connectors big enough to handle the amp draw. |
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However, the same inverter won't handle my 1/2 hp garage door opener for more than 4 seconds. Quote:
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500 Amps ? Yeah, right ... for about two seconds. I don't think you have a clue what 6000 watts will do to those "really heavy booster cables" ... Here's a formula to help you out - I = P/V . |
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Someone (besides their jumper cables) is blowing smoke.
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How do you think people boost trucks that require a huge amount of cranking amps? You get a pair of heavy duty booster cables. They're thick and they're not very long and they handle a lot of amps.
http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdonl...gSpecSheet.pdf That sheet suggests that 000 gauge copper (about 3/8" diameter) should handle 500 amps over 100 feet for welding applications. |
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Booster cable are nothing but jumper wires to allow one running engines alternator to put enough of a charge into the other vehicle battery to allow it to start. You don't need large wire to do that. Welding cable is high frequency current, you're comparing apples to oranges. You would need OOOO size cable to handle 500 Amps of DC battery current for any length of time. This is why larger off grid homes use 24 and 48 volt battery banks instead of 12 volt, it allows them to use a reasonable wire size to handle the amps required. I = P / V 500 = 6000 / 12 but if, 250 = 6000 / 24 or, 125 = 6000 / 48 Notice how the wattage never changed but magically the amp draw goes down when we use higher voltage ? This would be the input current to the inverter. |
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These ratings are for lengths starting at 100 foot lengths.
The wire size can go down and amps go up,,,,as the wire length becomes shorter Note 100 foot of 3/0 wire will handle 500 amps' The o/d of 3/0 is 0.670 inches ,, That is about 5/8 inches in dia. and these ratings are for 500 amps , continuous current. You can us a smaller wire size for shorter runs. http:///www.generalcable.com/NR/rdonlyres/7EBE5634-7C22-4077-B5B2-FFFha5291871F1/0/CAR_0121_0509CarolpreneWeldngSpecSheet.pdf <table id="table5" width="100%" border="0"><tbody><tr><td> 12-VOLT ACCESSORIES POWER INVERTER CABLES </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> 4/06F </td> </tr> <tr> <td> AIMS POWER 6 FT 4/0G LUGGED INVERTER CABLE SET
</td></tr></tbody></table> |
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